An August Ascent of Mt. Sill by Dave Wyman
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  2. An August Ascent of Mt. SillAn August Ascent of Mt. Sill


It had been 30+ years since my last visit to the Palisade Glacier and the craggy, ancient Mount Sill, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California. The photographs in this gallery were made just a week later. Having failed the previous seven days in a try to reach the summit of Sill, which stands 14,162 feet above sea level, I decided to make another attempt. I'm glad I gave myself a second chance, glad I didn't decide to wait another 30 years.


I had traveled to the mountain the previous week with good - and ancient and craggy - friends who, after our trip, needed to return to their normal lives. This trip, I would by chance meet a party of three accomplished mountaineers high on the mountain.


I traveled light, carrying in particular memories and some recent thoughts about my life. Certain objects, small enough to carry in a pocket, were heavy with meaning, representing my past, the moment in which I found myself, and what might come. Some of those objects stayed on top of the peak, others came back.


For climbing gear, I brought just my ice axe and crampons. My feet were shod in lightweight boots. I brought my lightweight sleeping bag and pad, not much in the way of spare clothes, minimal first-aid (three band-aids, four gauze pads, some tape, and Ibuprofen), a ground cloth, several energy bars and some beef jerky (OK, a pouch of freeze-dried Chocolate Cheesecake, too), a water bottle (but no cup or utensils), a headlamp and my iPod. I carried no stove, nor a tent. Complete weight of my pack was about 27 pounds. It would be, I told myself, a quick trip - in on a Tuesday afternoon, out by Wednesday evening.


Some of my gear was modern. I carried lightweight Kahtoola crampons, and wore lightweight 5.10 boots. Some of my gear was old, like my sleeping bag and my ice axe, both purchased well over three decades ago. I used my beloved backpack, the amazing, frameless "Jensen Pack," which, like the Kelty frame pack, is still available for those who love classic technology which will never become obsolete.


Camera gear: A Nikon DSLR, with a couple of extra batteries (I turned the LCD auto-review off to conserve power; one battery was more than sufficient). I took one lens, an f/2 35mm, offering a "normal" rather than telephoto or wide angle view. A zoom lens would have allowed more visual choices, but would have weighed more and I'd have spent time deciding on focal lengths and compositions. I've stitched a few photos for a wide angle look, and the lens has good close-focus capability. Did I meet the challenge of effectively using just one lens? I think so.


Javier on top

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 12:13 PMViews: 103

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Javier tops out

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 12:13 PMViews: 106

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A few minutes more climbing.....

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 12:10 PMViews: 99

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Dan farther along the ridge

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 12:00 PMViews: 102

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Advancing up the ridge to the summit

After making the crux move, we found ourselves on a narrow ridge leading to the broader, west-facing slope of the summit of Mt. Sill.
Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 12:00 PMViews: 103

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Dan is feeling good

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:55 AMViews: 102

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Dan heads up the crux move, Steve belays

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:52 AMViews: 103

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Steve anchors Dan

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:42 AMViews: 102

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Steve

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:39 AMViews: 99

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Safety items

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:36 AMViews: 97

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Climbing can be a colorful sport

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:24 AMViews: 99

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North Palisade and Palisade lacier in reflection

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:18 AMViews: 103

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Javier, Steve and Dan

We four joined together and made our way across a series of ledges and up one short, vertical pitch
Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:14 AMViews: 101

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I meet Javier near the crux of the climb

At the top of the L-Shaped Glacier - and just below the most difficult part of the climb - I met Javier and two of his climbing friends. I was a little sorry to lose my solo challenge of the peak, yet I was also glad for the companionship and the sense of safety I suddenly encountered. Then again, I wasn't after safety, but it was nice to have it.
Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 11:07 AMViews: 106

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Looking down the L-Shaped Glacier

Capture Date: Aug 8, 2007 10:54 AMViews: 98

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